I’ve had an absolute mare with the footman jacket. I’ve ben working on it for the past two weeks, drawing the pattern, making toiles, failing, repeating. I did this loads and no matter how much I measured it kept coming out too small. Maybe its lack of sleep or I’m just the ultimate scatter brain, but it took about a week for me to work out what was going wrong. I was using Hanna’s (my female model) measurements, not Lee’s (my male model, above), not sure how I managed to make such an obvious mistake for so long. Anyway, its fixed now, and so I finally have a toile that fits well enough I can bare to show it to the internet world.
It needed a bit of adjustment, but mostly it fitted okay. Though Lee did complain it was very tight under the arms. I’m not sure how much bigger to make them, I don’t want him to be uncomfortable, but historically the arm holes were a lot tighter than we wear them.
In this image the left hand side has been taken in and the right hand side hasn’t. It definitely hangs better.
This is an option for the buttons, its either these or fabric covered…I still have to decide.
You need to add a inch or so to the sleeve head. That will stop the pulling that you see coming from the under arm. that should help with the fit. Don`t forget that since it is a mans coat for proper shaping you should also have a shoulder pad in which means adding at least a centimeter on either side of the shoulder seam at tapering from nothing at the neck to 1 cm at the armhole. Split the sleeve to adjust for the extra 2 cm added to the body. I would also put in the other sleeve to check the cross back to make sure its not tight. Looks pretty good!
ReplyDeleteIt's looking good - but I hope Lee's not going to smile like that on the day...he'll scare the public away! xx
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